<NEW DOWSING COURSE> pt.1 ... Section 2

[Tao]

Thank you Mayatnik... I`ve been waiting this posts in a while now
I`ll read them right now... I wanted to reply to be the first one who says anything

Mike

[wantsumrice]

wow, Maya since you have taken soo long typing all these beautiful posts i must read it

ill take a week off, relax, fool with my pendy, and just read this. everything else will be secondary

i cant wait to see the new "stuff"! lol

peace [8]
~ivan

[MAYATNIK]

S.2 == BUYING OR MAKING  L-RODS  AND  PENDULUM ==
----- plus, other essential information and tips.
----- also – Addresses of Dowsing Associations.

This section explains how to make your own L-rods and Pendulums – the two Dowsing tools that we shall be using in this course.  Even if you only intend to use one type, it is advised to make both, since this is very quick and easy to do, and a better understanding of Dowsing in general will then be obtained by at least some practice with both.   Basically, an L-rod will swivel, and a Pendulum will swing or gyrate, in giving an indication.

L-rods and Pendulums can actually be purchased from Dowsing Societies (a list of which is given in this course material).  But here I shall describe how you can make your own, cheaply and effectively  from simple materials even if, like myself, you feel you have little or  no practical skill.

Sizes in this section are given in inches.  For those using centimtres, 1 inch = 2.54 centimeters.
So (approx)...
4in = 10cm, 5in=12.5cm, 10in=25cm.

THE L-RODS

For many applications 2 L-rods are used, although some applications only require one.

An L-rod (or 'Angle-rod') is, as the name implies, of an L-shape, and can be made by bending stiff wire into that shape.  The wire can be cut from a metal coat-hanger, or fencing-wire, thick electrician's  earth-bonding wire or thick piano wire.

The rod is made by bending a piece of stiff wire (length 14 inches) to a sharp right-angle, a long side (10 inches) and a short side (4 inches) being obtained.  The short side is to be held in the hand so should preferably be sleeved.  The sleeving can be such as the plastic or metal casing tube of a ball-point pen.  Tubing can also generally be purchased at most aeroplane-model shops in a wide range of sizes and diameters, as can also be purchased there thick  piano wire.  The L-rod can actually be of plastic or metal, but metal is preferred since it is quick to fashion, and the metal coat-hanger is often readily found in most people's wardrobes – in fact, many a fireman has saved lives when searching in the rubble of collapsed buildings for buried survivors by using L-rods fashioned in seconds  this way and dowsing for them because speed and therefore time saving accuracy is of the essence in those situations.

Since the whole idea of the L-rod is to be as friction-free as possible so that when held in the hand the long side can swival horizonally, one must either hold it very loosely and ensure that the knuckles and fleshy top of the hand do not impede the swivelling movement of the long arm of the rod, or – and this is obviously better – the short end can be sleeved with tubing.  Depending on the amount of play due to the size of wire compared with the tubing, grommets may be found useful to pass the wire through for both ends of the tubing. to keep the wire central and friction free.  Additionally, the end of the short span, where it comes out of the bottom of the tubing, can be bent over for retention of the tubing, since a loose tube is easily lost – especially if dowsing in a field and it slips off for any reason.

The above procedure should be repeated for the second L-rod - and then you have your complete tool, the two L-rods, ready for use.

NOTE: Some Dowsers use a longer than 10 inch swivel-end, but 10 inches will be found practical for all normal situations, and could be made up to 2 inches smaller for portability – say, for carrying in a pocket, or if used by a small person or child.   Incidentally, it has been proven that children learn to Dowse very accurately within minutes of picking up their first dowsing rod, compared with adults who often have doubts as to their ability to dowse successfully.  Several famous people in history, it is documented, were taught dowsing with L-rods or Pendulum as a child, and went on to make new astounding discoveries in science and other fields, invariably crossing new frontiers, thus benefiting Mankind enormously in his evolution.

THE PENDULUM

A Pendulum can be purchased from New Age shops, or places that sell esoterica.  Generally speaking, any shop that sells Tarot cards (apart from bookshops, which also tend to stock Tarot cards these days) will often stock a range of Pendulums.  In the UK, for example, there is often at least one shop in every large town that will sell Pendulums, and even very small towns now have such shops – in fact many indoor markets and precinct shopping centres in the UK  are a good place to look for one, so readily available are they.  In other countries they may be less easily available, especially where the small shop is now dying out and being replaced by large stores, so the suburbs and small towns are a better bet in certain  countries to buy them.  In some countries you simply cannot find one (largely due to religious restrictions) or at least not without great difficulty, sadly.  Thus, the Internet or other Esoteric Mail Order suppliers are now a growing source.  Prices can vary widely if buying on the Internet, and this is not because of the types stocked but because those sources offer Pendulum as "specially designed for superb accuracy" at often astounding prices to match the claims.  There is no need to pay a lot of money for your Pendulum, and in the UK it is possible to buy a glass or crystal one from £2 upwards in a local market, or £7 for a superb Crystal Pendulum (equivalent to $3.25 to $11.50 US approx) compared with up to $200 charged by one Internet 'specialist' supplier of Pendulums (and L-rods) that I have seen.  Most Dowsing Societies can supply Pendulums at a reasonable price, as well as telling you where your nearest society is located if there is none in your immediate area.  Addresses, phone numbers (and even email addresses for some societies) are given at the end of this section, for the main Dowsing Societies in several countries.

If you are purchasing a Pendulum, then it is always better to handle  and get the 'feel' of it before buying.  Ask to see several, because one of them will very likely strike your as feeling just right for you – your intuition will tell you, and you will be attracted to it.  The 'defacto "New Age" standard' for Divination Pendulums is the clear quarz crystal because of the excellent attunement properties to psychic-vibrations that is inherent in the crystal lattice structure.  In fact, science uses crystal for electronic applications (such as transmitters and watches) because of its superb accuracy in frequency modulation.  Crystal also can be obtained in other 'colours' or types, such as amethyst and cover a wide spectrum right down to black.  Each has its own properties in healing or attunement to cause calming or aid memory and many other things.  The shop assistant will be more than happy to explain the various properties and types, since most who sell them are expert in that field, and shopping for a Pendulum in those sort of shops can be an extremely pleasurable experience not to be rushed.

Because a Pendulum is a very personal thing, I have collected quite a few over the years to show to pupils and for them to get a 'feel' for what suits them best, and these range in size and type.  I have, for example, a wooden one made of beech, for chakra diagnosis because wood reacts best to chakra energies, and should be lightweight for wide responsiveness.  In a few applicatioins wood is preferable to crystal when measuring such as lithon power in the energies transmitted by standing stones since it has been proven that quartz crystal absorbs (damps) energy rather than reacting to it (for this reason many dowsers use L-rods in that application - and a Pendulum would, in any case, have to be heavier than the lightweight beech one for use outdoors otherwise it would be affected by wind currents).

When I go to a shop and look at Pendulums, I always test each one to see if it will work well.  After all, no matter how nice it may look (or what properties it may inherently possess), it is a tool and must function efficiently.  Since I am experienced, I can get all types of Pendulum to work that will work, whereas a novice will only get a good response from the 'right' one for them.  Typically, a big person will generally find a bigger Pendulum best, and vice-versa, though this is not invariable since it also has to do with the receptivity of that person.  But, some Pendulums just will not work, hence the reason for handling them in the shop, to make sure you get the best one for you.  The reason why a Pendulum will sometimes be found not to work is because of it having received an 'imprint' from someone having handled it (or more likely used it) previously.  The subject of imprints on objects in general will be discussed in the appropriate section, where investigation methods will be demonstrated.  If a previous person  had handled that Pendulum more then relatively briefly and was very negative, or had the wrong 'intent' (having the right intent is vital in using a Pendulum correctly) then the Pendulum may well malfunction or even fail to respond.  So, I have a simple procedure which I employ at the shop counter (and which anyone can obtain a result with, even if going to buy their first Pendulum without any training).

The procedure to test a Pendulum to see if it will work is simply this:  

Hold the Pendulum between thumb and forefinger (index), firmly but not too tightly and give it a couple of seconds to 'settle' and for you also to settle into a relaxed 'contemplative' mood, so don't feel rushed or allow yourself to be pressured.  Feel calm, unhurried, and let the sounds of the world around you recede into the distance as you admire the qualities of what you hold in your hand.  You are in there to buy with your good money, and you should only buy if it feels right, whatever it is you are purchasing in any case.  In that kind of shop, especially, people take their time.

Think the following questions/statements while holding the Pendulum in front of you (about 6 inches away from your chest) in turn.....

1:  "Give me a 'yes', please" ...
followed by
2:  "Give me a 'no', please"
---- and then:
3:  "Will you work for me?"  (or "Will you work for God?")
---- and finally:
4:  "Circle, please"

After each question/statement observe the movement, if any.  If there is no movement then it may not respond for you and is not suitable.  Some sort of movement should occur, however small – and, in fact, as you test a number of Pendulums at the shop counter in this way, you will find some have a bigger movement than others.  Select your Pendulum as a compromise between size of movement and how it 'feels' to you.  Size of movement will increase with practice as you gain rapport with your Pendulum anyway, but affinity is very important, how you feel drawn to it, so go by your intuition in making your choice.

Don't worry about people noticing it move – that's what it's expected to do, otherwise it would not be a Pendulum.  At this stage the fact that it does move is more important than the direction it moves in.  But observe which direction it moves when asking question 1. "Give me a 'yes', please".  And observe that it moves in a different direction to question 2. "Give me a 'no', please".  Remember the direction it responded to the 'yes' (question1)... because in question 3, "Will you work for me?" (or God, if you prefer to word it that way) you clearly want a 'yes' response (whatever movement direction that was)... otherwise it is not for you, and if it will not oblige then put it down to one side, out of the way.  Question 4, "Circle, please" is a final test, to see if it will indeed comply with instructions given.  As we shall see later, there are two basic movements, swinging (side to side and at right-angles to that movement) plus circling (either clockwise or counter-clockwise).  Hopefully the Pendulum will have performed those movements in that test, but can be programmed easily to work correctly in any case later, so don't worry about it.  Later sections will explain about programming, and also why dowsers often have different meanings for the various movements in what we shall call 'default' dowser mode, as opposed to 'Advanced' Mode which is consistent and has much greater potential also.

MAKING YOUR OWN PENDULUM

Even if you have already made your own Pendulum, reading through this part may give some additional pointers for improving it.  Your Pendulum weight should ideally be symmetrical so that it hangs well.  Although many things can be used as a weight and will work after a fashion, the object being used as the weight will not work best if it is too long (such as a mortice key) since the weight is distributed along its length and can cause erratic movement.  Similarly, a disk-shaped weight (such as a medallion) will tend to exhibit 'spin' or erratic movement even when stationary, and this behaviour will be magnified when the Pendulum swings, so can make it at best difficult to read its movement; it can even cause the Pendulum to produce the opposite movement to that intended, a 'no' for a 'yes'.  How the Pendulum looks is also very important, not only to give a good impression to anyone who sees you using it but also how it looks reinforces in your mind what its purpose is, an instrument of precision and worth of great respect because of the 'source' that provides the information to you.  So, although a bathplug on the end of a chain will actually work to some useful extent (depending on the weight of the plug, metal being better than rubber) it may well produce peals of laughter if not derision from an onlooker who may already be skeptical.  And, it should be aesthetically pleasing to you.  For this reason, crystal is ideal for a weight, as well as possessing excellent 'attuning' qualities and a thing of beauty.

The 'thread' of whatever material used to hang the Pendulum weight should not be too thick, and certainly not too heavy that it becomes part of the weight if sensitive movement is to be obtained.  A fine chain is ideal, and also a thing of aesthetic beauty, but generally a piece of fine string (coloured would be nice) can be used.  Cotton thread and cat gut, fishing line or similar will work well (and catgut is often supplied with cheaper Pendulums that are sold) but a problem with fine thread (and fine chain also) is that they very easily tangle so that when you come to pick it up the first thing that has to be done is to untangle knots – so not the best start, since a calm and contemplative state of mind is necessary for best operation of the Pendulum, and frustration does not lead to that!  Nylon stranded thread is not ideal, since it has inherent springiness in use that can interfere with the movement (and that type of thread also tangles very easily); a further factor with nylon, or indeed any synthetic thread is that it has a great potential to produce electrostatic charge and this will reduce the sensitivity of the Pendulum.  A note here, whilst on the subject of tangling and particularly electrostic charge, is that you should avoid storing your Pendulum where these conditions can arise.  A little pouch is ideal (and again aesthetically pleasing) to keep your Pendulum in when not in use, but this should not be a synthetic material.  I have several small puches – these cotton and silk pouches are great to slip into a small pocket.  For hanging round the neck I have a leather pouch (a purse type) and also a Native American Indian moccasin type skin pouch with tassles.  A 'feels good' factor is important in keeping the right 'frame of mind' at all times.

Whatever type of 'threaad' or chain you decide on, the next important thing is attaching it securely to the weight.  Some people have used machine-nuts and washers, simply because they have holes in them and several can be put together to make up the required weight (which, for most people will be between 2.5 and 12.5 grammes – that is, up to half an ounce).  This is fine for establishing what feels the right weight for you and produces a good firm swing, but is not aesthetically pleasing to look at, though useful in any 'emergency'.  Don't limit yourself to something that already has a hole in it, since it is very easy to fix a thread to anything by means of expoxy-resin', superglue' or similar.  A chain is best being fixed into an eyelet, either via its last link or using wire (and possibly expoxy-resin also).  If the weight is wood it is easy to screw an eyelet into it, but check that it will be symmetrical in the way it hangs.  Many hardware shops sell interesting litle and even tiny knobs for cupboard doors in a wide range of metal and wood designs, and these can look quite good as a Pendulum weight with an eyelet screwed or firmly glued to facilitate attaching the thread, or the thread attached by epoxy-resin direct.

The length of thread is the next point to consider.  In Dowsing, a cord length of up to 2 feet is sometimes used, and this is called 'Long Pendulum' dowsing; the long cord techniques are used to determine what materials are being investigated, and certain lengths will produce a 'yes' response if that material under investigation has the required composition that the Pendulum operator has in mind and is visualising while testing for this, and there is even an 'established length' to determine sex – all this according to a table set out and arrived at by investigation by top dowsers over the years.  Since there are much better, quicker and easier ways of determining all these things by Information Dowsing techniques the 'long thread' methods are interesting scientifically, but not necessary.  So, a much shorter thread can be used.  Typically, it will be found that a 9 inch cord length will produce good results, and a shorter length of 6 inches will also be found useful (especially for Map Dowsing, where space is limited, due to working at a table).  Another factor that should be born in mind, is comfort in use.  Just holding up the Pendulum can cause arm fatigue, so the arm should be supported since better results are otained through many questions and this can take considerable time for a particular session.  Sitting down at a table with the elbow resting on it, and the arm suitably angled to enable the weight at the end of the Pendulum to by in line with the chest area should be practiced, and the length of cord needed thus established for that application.  Sitting down in an easy chair with soft armrests is conducive to good long sessions without fatigue, since the elbow can similarly be rested on the arm of the chair; again, observe the most suitable cord length in that situation.  Thus, it will be seen that one fixed length may not be appropriate all the time, and so I would recommend a length of about 12 inches, and that the user wrap the excess around the hand.  The method of holding the Pendulum cord is between thrumb and the adjacent forefinger, in a firm but relaxed manner but not too tightly since this will tense up the muscles and can interfere with the Pendulum's responses (the Pendulum works by reacting to tiny nerve  impulses that are transmitted to the fingers to cause very precise movement via the muscles automatically without conscious effort).  Having a 12 inch cord length is also useful as an adaptation of the 'counting' method that is part of the 'long Pendulum' technique.  In using the Pendulum for counting in this way (particularly for establishing how deep below the surface something may be that has been found) the Pendulum is let to slip between the fingers and then regripped every so often.  When a 'yes' response is obtained, then the required depth has been reached proportional to the cord length as divided up into sections by having first marked it in some way in equal divisions (say of 1 inch).  If you are using chain, then you could tie a plastic bead at those divisions.  White string is ideal if you are planning on using it for that kind of thing at any time, or as an  experiment, and then you can colour the thread in alternate 1 inch bands (say, in red – or some other easily seen colour).  Then all that you have to do is 'read off' the depth according to the scale you have assigned (which can be anything that you choose).  However, as I 've said, there are much easier ways of ascertaining these things, and a simple series of questions will soon find the depth, "Is it greater than 6 feet?"........Is it less than 3 feet?" etc. will soon give you the answer.

So, I would suggest that buying a Pendulum or making one that is aesthetically pleasing are the best options.  But just quickly making one from the right sort of materials that will work is also useful to try various experiments in addition to using your regular Pendulum, if a different material for the weight is required or a longer thread.

A final useful tip, if you are making your own (or if the one you have bought does not have this) is to put a bobble (duffle-coat button or a bead) on the end.  Then, if you are working with the full length, it can be held easier by the end without danger of it slipping out of your fingers.  Any time that you let go of the thread you need to allow a couple of seconds for it to settle when you hold it again – this is for it to identify you, and this 'log on' is necessary for correct results.

AN EXPERIMENT
WITH  YOUR EM-FIELD AND THE PENDULUM.

The Pendulum is a precision instrument, and responds dynamically in what dowsers term a 'reflex mechanism' through the body.  It has been well proven that the Pineal and adrenal glands are important in the detection of an invisible 'target' that the dowser is thinking of, or for the input of information via the 'Higher Self'  (that term coined by Guy Underwood, the man considered to be the doyen of dowsing).  Scientific experiments have proved that when a metal plate is placed in front of these glands it is not possible to dowse.   I have also found,  in my own experience, that if the Pendulum is used close to the ground this will usually severely 'damp' its response, producing weak or even spurious responses – so it is best not sitting on the ground while using the Pendulum for best results as it may be 'earthed' out.  The effect of this will very from person to person, and may also depend on whether it is true 'earth' point, or some height above it (for example, when close to floorboards suspended on joists).  Therefore, it is a good idea to try this out for yourself, and see what results you get, and in that way get to know the amount of latitude you can have yourself when using your Pendulum.

In addition to this, I have personally proven that where the Pendulum is held in relation to the body affects the direction of its movement also in a given response of 'yes' or 'no'.  The student can ascertain for him/her own self what happens, as I have found out.  For me, 'yes' is a side to side movement and this is achieved when the Pendulum is held directly in front of the body (at chest level preferably) and about 6 inches away.  Whichever response ('yes' or 'no') gives you the side-side movement select this by asking for that response.  In my case, then, I would ask, "Give me a 'yes', please".  For this experiment I would ask (in my case) "Keep giving me a 'yes', until I tell you to stop, please".  The objective here, is to move the Pendulum around the body, first to the left and then to the right side – so, it will be convenient when moving the Pendulum around to the left to hold the Pendulum in the left hand, and vice-versa when moving around to the right-hand side.   So, now, having obtained that side-side swing for yourself (holding the Pendulum in the left hand for this part), slowly move the Pendulum towards the left side of your body, while keeping the same relative distance away from the body,  It will be noticed that as you slowly move the Pendulum following the line of the body round (you may find it helpful to do this in little steps, a few degrees at a time, stopping momentarily to ensure that the Pendulum does not jiggle about due to arm movement) that the angle of the swing changes gradually from side-to-side (relative to front facing) to being in-out relative to where you are viewing from.  Thus, it can be seen that the Pendulum takes a tangent to the body, but it does not however follow the body's actual contours but rather it follows the electromagnetic field of the aura which varies in shape according to various factors to do with the emotions of the person, and particularly how much that person is cared for and cares for others.  For this reason it may, relatively, change angle more at some positions than others.  Now, repeat the experiment, this time holding the Pendulum with the right hand, and proceed to move it slowly around to the right-hand side of the body.  The results should follow a similar pattern.  A seeming oddity that can occasionally occur in this verification experiment is that an individual may find at one or more certain points the direction of swing changes suddenly in a small area from its relative side-side movement to right angles to it (in-out, relative, in other words) and which I term a 'spigot'.  This is, I have found to be, a response to an imbalance in the aura due to emotional 'damage' typically.  If this phenomenon should be exhibited then a session with a Reiki practitioner should be considered as that will help balance the aura considerably amongst other benefits that will be obtained from the treatment.  Reiki helps start the process of de-conditioning that will assist inner-development, by tuning the chakras and producing detoxification.  The Pendulum is, in itself, a great help in inner-development when used in a 'spiritual' context (Advanced Mode) through Question-Answer sessions - though that beneficial effect I mention does not apply as dramatically in  Tradional Dowsing ('Default') Mode, but nevertheless is an excellent foundation by helping to centre the person and removing some conditioning 'baggage' in preparation as well as as establishing a good connection with the Pendulum (and indeed with its counterpart, the L-rod, also).

The object of the above verification experiment is essentially to note that if the Pendulum is moved relative to front position, then a side-side movement (and indeed an in-out movement) will appear to be at some angle in between the two possible for 'yes' and 'no'.  A point may be reached at any stage where there can be confusion between the two possible answers, and therefore the 'wrong' answer may be mistakenly assumed to be correct.  Dowsers do not appear to have done any research on this, but they have instead assumed that the Pendulum may change its direction from day to day, so they advise that the operator of the Pendulum check at the start of each session with the usual "Give me a 'yes', please" to get an accurate reference.  This is the problem with methods that have simply been 'passed on' especially from assumptions made by the average user, which may then become adopted by others.  While this is not the only factor that can cause wrong results, it is the most common one, and is largely caused by careless positioning of the Pendulum, often as a result of sloppy posture when sitting especially.  If you imagine the skeletal framework of the body as being an 'antenna' then you will remember to keep the body straight when using the Pendulum, so if sitting then sit upright, never slouch back or forward or lean sidewise while using the Pendulum, nor should you cross your legs because this can effectively short-out the minor chakras at the kneecaps and thus cause a temporary imbalance.   The bottom line is, if you understand what your Pendulum is doing then you will know what the movements are, and therefore not be prone to misreading them.  As you become more experienced you will find that you can use the Pendulum with slight latitude, and a very experienced user can work with the Pendulum in any position reliably, as I can.  But I would suggest the beginner to adhere strictly to the guidelines I have stated above, until they are very sure and have gained considerable experience.  I rather suspect that this overlooking of relative positions by dowsers has come about by experienced dowsers keeping their 'secrets' to themselves, and just giving out general 'failsafe' guidelines to learners which has in time become 'defacto standard'.  Part of my intention in this course is to blow apart the mysticism that has been perpetuated by top Dowsers, and in so doing the reader will now have the opportunity to become expert themselves with diligent practice, instead of the true advanced  skills remaining in the hands of an elite few.  So, in various parts of the course, as appropriate to aid understanding, I shall clear away some of the 'fog' that is contained in traditional explanations of certain methods (these being mainly to do with certain movements of the Pendulum).  The 'Traditional Dowsing methods work accurately, even in the 'fog' of differing movements etc provided one follows a particular convention, but the reader will be better able to later read and cross-relate to any dowsing book, so limitation is therefore taken away and the potential for exploration with any application will be greatly improved to the extent that new advances become ever more possible in this well established art/science as a result if more people really understand what it is all about, rather than assuming because someone 'said so'.  This course material is therefore longer because of full explanations, whereas it would have been so easy to just write a few lines of set 'failsafe guidelines' which would fall short of giving the best 'kick start'  to the true potential achievable by the student who diligently works through this material in a positive and receptive frame of mind.  As any good Dowsing book will tell you, "Frame of mind is everything" – and that, in fact, is the watchword of the professional, so well worth emulating.  How many times does the professional golfer, or any other top sportsman, say on missing what should have been an easy shot, "I wasn't in the right frame of mind that time".  the right frame of mind for Dowsing is the contemplative state (scientific tests done which have proved this are outlined in section 1, and also in other sections as appropriate).  So,  just as the expert golfer relaxes and contemplates before taking his shots so should the dowser if he wants to be expert – it's as easy as that; just being in the right frame of mind makes all the difference.

== ADDRESSES OF DOWSING SOCIETIES ==

The following are some addresses which are a representative list from dowsing societies worldwide.  If there is not a society near you listed here, then you will be able to find other societies that may be nearer by contacting one of those on this list.

Many Dowsing Societies can provide Pendulums and L-rods, often by post, at very reasonable prices.  All societies have regular meetings and organize lectures from visiting experts on dowsing and in allied fields (including scientific and archaeological) and also field trips for members to learn in the company of other members and investigate the phenomena of earth energies, Sacred Sites and much more that are in the locality wherever you live and even further afield.

Encountering such groups you will find that Dowsers are very well balanced and dedicated.  They do not 'tout' for membership, and those that attend meetings have an opportunity to see what is going on, and they are encouraged to observe before becoming members.  In this way, the accent is always positive - to investigate with the Dowsing tools along well defined and reliable principles and not about testing the intelligence of the tool.  Dowsing has, after all, been used for hundreds of years, and its reliability and proven ability to discover new facts that can then be investigated further by other dowsers is more than sufficiently well documented, so speaks for itself.

(in alphabetical order)

AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND

Dowsers Society of New South Wales Inc.
PO BOX 391,  Lindfield, NSW 2070.

Dowsers Club of South Astralia Inc.
PO BOX 2427, Kent Town 5071, South Astralia.

New Zealand Society of Dowsers and Radionics Inc.
PO BOX 41-095, St Lukes, Aukland 3.

North Tasmanian Dowsing Association.
PO Forth, Tasmania 7310.

South Tasmanian Dowsing Association.
PO BOX 101, Moonah, Tasmania.

BRITAIN AND IRELAND

The British Society of Dowsers.
Sycamore Barn, Hasingleigh, Ashford, Kent TN25 5HW.
> Phone/Fax: 01233 750253
> Email: bsd@dowsers.demon.co.uk
> Website: http://dowsers.demon.co.uk

(There are 21 well established dowsing societies throughout Britain, and the Dowsing Society can provide information on them.  Many are affiliated to the BSD).

CANADA

Canadian Society of Dowsers.
2110 Georgevill Road, Magog QC, JIX 3W4.

The Canadian Society of Questers.
PO BOX 4873, Vancouver BC, V6 B4A6.
> Website: http://users.uniserve.com/~questers

(My information is that the above two societies were considering amalgamating, so addresses may have changed and should be checked therefore, since I have not had time to do this myself).

EUROPE

AUSTRIA

Austerreicher Verband fur Radiasthesie und Geobiologie.
Florianigasse 43/1/12, A-1080 Vienna.

BELGIUM

Belgian-Dutch LA Dowsers Association.
Mrs N Leunens, Ninoofsteenweg 95, 1500 Halle.

DENMARK

Miljo- & Jordstraleforeningen Danmark.
Henning Juhl, Graensevej 49, DK 2650, Hvidovre, Copenhagen.

FRANCE

Association Francaise et Internationale des Amis de la Radiesthesie.
c/o Daniel Ville, 1 rue Jean Hornet, 93170, Bagnolet,
> Telephone: 00 33 1 49 72 88 71

GERMANY

Herold-Verlag Dr Wetzel.
Kirchbachweg 16, 81479 Munchen.

THE NETHERLANDS

Nederlands Genootschap voor Radiesthesue en Radionica.
HWJ de Hartog, Postbus 44, 1440 AA Purmerend.

Dutch-Belgian LA Dowsers Association.
Mrs N Martens, Chr van Pallandtlaan 31, 2104 SN Heemstede.

NORWAY

Norwegian Society of Dowsers.
(Norsk Kuistgjenger-forening)
v/Geir AB Wollmann, Zinoberveien, N-0758 Oslo.

SWEDEN

Svenska Slagrute for Bundet.
Karin Hallberg, Osttjarn 2380, 85590 Sundsvall

SWITZERLAND

Siss Association of Radiasthesie.
Mr G Heer, Hermenweg 3, CH-5702 Niederlenz.

UNITED STATES

The American Society of Dowsers Inc.
Danville, Vermont 05825.
> Telephone: 802-684-3417.
> Fax: 802-684-2565.
> Email: ASD@dowsers.org
> Website: http:/New Hampshire.com/dowsers.org


In Section 3 we shall be looking in more depth at L-rods and Pendulum, and in how they are used – plus, how to become familiar with them as a preparation to later sections.

— end of Section 2 –

With Pleiadian Love and Light,
MAYATNIK